Parallel Lives

Santa Severa Castle lies in Lazio on the coast, some 50 km North of Rome. It is a very picturesque and historic place on a very historic coast. Like most places in the area, the Castle lies on top of early Paleochristian remains, a Roman villa, a Roman fort, and before that, the massive Etruscan port of Pyrgi, now entirely silted up. The harbour had a sacred area with numerous temples and was one of the harbours servicing the powerful Etruscan city of Caere.

The castle with the remains of a breakwater from Pyrgi harbour (Photo by Angelo Esposito)

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The medieval castle is almost entirely intact and houses three public museums with exhibits telling the story of the territory, the castle, and the coastal trade in antiquity. Most of the finds in the museums come from the work of volunteer amateur archaeologists, donations, and pieces confiscated by the police from illegal excavators, both above and below water. 

The volunteer amateur archaeologist group, led by a professional, is active in field walking the area, tidying the ancient sites, and excavating the city of Castrum Novum. This city has the world's second oldest known and visible military Roman fort, and a theatre by the sea. The Group’s offices, conservation laboratory, and finds stores are all within the Santa Severa Complex.

Recently, the Lazio Regional Government, through one of its start-ups, has put forward plans to take control of the museums, the Group’s stores (which also house bulky diving equipment), and the conservation laboratory without proposing an alternative storage facility.

The intent is to create a luxury complex with an upgraded hotel, restaurants, wedding facilities, and so on—cash is the main motor of the project, which is not yet clearly defined.

Volunteers see this grab as the first phase of an eviction, a fate already befallen the artisan shops that once made the castle a lively centre.

Leaving politics aside (not easy, as the Castle belongs to the Region but falls within the territory of the Commune of Santa Marinella), several points stand out from this unsavoury tale. 

A unique historical venue should not be limited to the well-heeled but should be a focal point for the local community and for all those interested in its complex and fascinating history. For some, the extreme commercialisation of unique cultural remains is offensive, especially when it includes testimony of early Christian worship and the gods of a long-gone civilisation.

The Castle's content and environs do not belong to this generation or the next generation. We are the current guardians, as we are the guardians of Stonehenge, the Pyramids, the Eiffel Tower, and Niagara Falls. If we let money interfere with culture, history, and our roots, what will the next generation think of us?

Volunteers from all walks of life and many different countries have created a unique centre and immensely added to our understanding of history. The awarding of the Order of the Boot is the thank you that is probably around the corner for them. They have donated their free time and pay 25 Euros a year as a subscription, which includes insurance against accidents while carrying out their work, which at times is dangerous and exhausting.

In this world, awash with talk of renewable energy, volunteers provide services that states are unprepared to fund. The eviction with little or no consultation of volunteers and the politicians' harvest of their labours is stupid: volunteers are voters. 

By now, TTE readers will be wondering what all this has to do with health and healthcare. Wait for the next parallel life. 

This post was written by two geezers who think King Cash does not mix with everything, and not everything should be for sale.